When people say the phrase ‘you couldn’t write that script’, they say it about occasions like the men’s Boulder final of the IFSC World Cup Brixen 2023.
The stunning finale came down to the final climber on the final boulder. The climber – Toby Roberts. The situation – reach the top or miss out on a medal altogether.
The British climber was up against last week’s winner in Prague, South Korea’s Lee Dohyun and four top Japanese climbers in the final, and he was trying to win his first-ever gold medal. The pressure was on, not that you could tell.
“Because we see the scores in the back I knew I had to top,” said Roberts. “So I was just trying to stay calm and look at the boulder as just a boulder and not think about anything else, but it’s pretty hard when you are in that environment. The crowd was incredible and part of the reason I got up it.”
The crowd were incredible, and incredibly loud when Roberts let out the emotion at the top of the final boulder when the realisation set in he had won his first gold.
“Words can’t explain it, I feel absolutely incredible. The fight on that last boulder, I have no words, I had to give it absolutely everything. I left it all on the boulder and I can’t quite believe I won my first World Cup. It’s so surreal.”
Until that last climb the person in pole position was the South Korean Lee who was straight out of the box with a flashed first boulder in around 40 seconds that everyone before him had even struggled to zone.
Behind Roberts and Lee came the four Japanese climbers, with Ogata Yoshiyuki leading the pack to take the final medal on offer, the bronze.
Ogata’s bronze was thanks to a flash on the final boulder, something which teammate Narasaki Meichi also did. More attempts throughout the other finals three boulders put him in fourth.
Young gun Anraku Sorato continued his good form in his debut season with another final appearance alongside Narasaki Tomoa who had to settle for sixth. Meichi can claim the family honours this time around.
The IFSC World Cup now moves on to Innsbruck, Austria, from 14 to 18 June for the final Boulder competition of the season and the first Lead.
Full men’s Boulder results can be found here
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